Transiting the Spanish-Moroccan border: a visual historical journey
María Isolda Perelló Carrascosa
He is part of the Work team of the Research Group on Migration and Development of the University of Valencia (inmeasure). Doctor in Social Sciences from the University of Valencia, Spain (2015-2019), Research line: Migration, Mobility and Social Change. Thesis co-supervised by the University of Valencia (Spain) and El Colef (Tijuana, Mexico). Master in Development Cooperation, specializing in Co-development and Migratory Movements (2011-2013). Research lines: irregular migration, border control migration policy, detention and deportation procedures, and the role of civil society in the field of humanitarian aid and defense of human rights on the borders of Mexico-United States and Spain -Morocco.
orcid: 0000-0002-3682-0356
Sergio Torres Gallardo
Superior Technician in Fallero Artist and Construction of Scenographies (2013-2015). Extraordinary National Award and of the gva (2014-2015), Professional Family of Arts and Crafts. Assistant Technician in Image and Sound (1990-1995).
Between fortifications and walls: the border cities of Ceuta and Melilla in the western Mediterranean

The natural frontier
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, 2014
After the waters of the Strait, the Moroccan coast can be seen to the left; in the center, Cádiz, and to the right, Gibraltar. Ceuta has occupied throughout history within the field of international communications a privileged position in the passage of the Strait of Gibraltar. Located off the coast of Cádiz and the bay of Algeciras, from which it is separated by a distance of 14 kilometers, it is made up of the Almina peninsula (at the tip of which is Mount Hacho, which joins the mainland by a isthmus), in addition to the island of Perejil and smaller islets (Vilar, 2003: 274).

The viewpoint of Africa
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, 2014
Panoramic view of the Isthmus of Almina and Mount Hacho (left), from the Mirador Isabel ii. To the right Morocco. With an area of 19.48 km2 (Procesa, Sociedad Pública de Desarrollo de Ceuta, 2013: 4), Ceuta is currently the only European city located in northern Africa (Vilar and Vilar, 2002). During a long period of a thousand years, its geographical location as a city open to the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea attracted the settlement of different civilizations.

Ceuta watches over the Strait
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 2014
Torre Vigía de la Punta de Sauciño, located in the Hacho Enclosure, dating back to the century xviii. Since the beginning, Ceuta has been militarized in some way and has been the subject of numerous war disputes.
The wall and the moat
Sergio Torres. Royal Moat, Bastion of the Flag and Plaza de Armas of the monumental complex of the Walls, Ceuta, 2014
With a Christian-Byzantine past, subjected to the Muslim conquest in the century viii and the Portuguese Reconquest in the century xv, the border began to be drawn during the Middle and Modern Ages for the defense of a space that depended on the armament and fortification system that was available in the territory (Vilar and Vilar, 2002; Gómez-Barceló, 2009). Proof of this is the Revellín del Ángulo de San Pablo, a century-old construction xviii located at the northern end of the wall. It was in the mid-1990s that migrants and refugees who crossed the border irregularly were massively concentrated, which led to serious altercations with the local population.


Melilla la Vieja
Sergio Torres. Melilla Fortress, August 2014
The history of Melilla is linked to that of Ceuta; It has witnessed numerous historical events: the city founded by the Phoenicians, annexed by the Roman Empire and conquered by the Carthaginians, remained under Byzantine and Muslim rule, until it became part of the Spanish Crown in 1556. It was also the territory of the Protectorate (1913-1956) and later witness of the military uprising that gave rise to the bloody Spanish Civil War (1936).
Coast defense
Sergio Torres. Desnarigado Fort, Ceuta, 2014
Formerly this fort served to guard a cove near Ceuta, which was a regular meeting place for corsairs who came from Morocco. One of these pirates, the Desnarigado, gave his name to both the cove and the fortress. This enclosure was used by the Arabs and from 1415 by the Portuguese, and was modified in 1693. The current castle was built in the century xix. During the Protectorate it was dismantled, and in 1936 it was dismantled, although with the African campaigns of the ii World War returned to military activity (Defense Culture Portal, no date).


The maritime corridor of the Strait
Sergio Torres. Monte Hacho, Ceuta, 2014
In the image you can see a military powder magazine guarded by a turret. In the background to the right is the Rock of Gibraltar. Ceuta and Melilla constitute an essential point for the control of irregular migration that comes from Africa within the Spanish defense network, despite the fact that they are not part of the intergovernmental military alliance of the North Atlantic Treaty (NATO), to which Spain ratified its membership in 1986 (Juan Carlos Rois Alonso, Colectivo Utoía Contagiosa, personal communication of October 13, 2015).
The securitization of immigration control on the Spanish-Moroccan border

The forbidden zone I
MY Perelló. Breakwater of Benzú, Ceuta, 2014
From the Benyunes-Benzú turret they see them and intercept them in the water, before they pass. They try to pass from the top. But at night, the thermals and the Integrated External Surveillance System (Yes go) detect them.
Alfonso Cruzado, Head of Communication of the Civil Guard Command in Ceuta, personal communication of September 10, 2014
The forbidden zone II
MY Perelló. Ceuta border fence and its ring road, September 10, 2014
The fence is a support element […] that allows 6 or 7 minutes from when the intrusion is detected or activated in the system, so that the patrols can access to the point, and avoid passing through a place that is not enabled for it.
Alfonso Cruzado, communication manager of the Civil Guard, personal communication of September 10, 2014


The forbidden zone III
MY Perelló. Ceuta fence, September 10, 2014
The concertina, once you press it, remains wrinkled like an accordion. For this reason, when the immigrants go to jump it, they usually wear a lot of clothes and use cardboard, because the closure of the concertinas is not fixed, but corrugated.
Alfonso Cruzado, communication manager of the Civil Guard, personal communication of September 10, 2014
The border of Tarajal I
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, 2014
Section of the border fence corresponding to the “Arroyo de las Bombas”, located next to the Tarajal polygon. The road around the fence is 8 kilometers long.


Living with the fence
Sergio Torres. Border fence, Benzú sector, Ceuta, 2014
Benzú is a district to the northwest of Ceuta of great archaeological importance. In the upper part of the image is the García Aldave Mount Ceutí, known as Tortuga Mount. In the upper right part is the Mount Yebel Musa or Dead Woman, belonging to the Moroccan territory of Benyunes.

The Dead Woman and the fence
Sergio Torres. Benzú Beach, Ceuta, 2014
This is the maximum approach distance allowed to the fence if you do not have authorization from the Spanish Civil Guard.

The mist
Sergio Torres. Benzú Beach, Ceuta, 2014
The Levante wind is one of the moments used by migrants of sub-Saharan origin who are hidden in the forest camps near the Benyunes land pass, to try to access the Spanish coasts through small boats.

The steel trap
Sergio Torres. Valla de Melilla, August 15, 2014
Crowning the first fence (the one that faces the Moroccan side), are the fearsome concertinas. In April 2015, the construction works of another fence with concertinas were completed, which was separated from the Melilla side by a five-meter-deep pit (sjm, 2016, pp. 21-22). In May 2019, the Spanish Ministry of the Interior established that this system, which has caused a large number of mutilations over the years, should be replaced by rotating cylinders. It is estimated that in 2020 the works will be completed (El pueblo de Ceuta, 2019).
After the jump
Sergio Torres. Valla de Melilla, August 15, 2014
Operator performing maintenance tasks and placing the "anti-climbing net" after several massive jumps were recorded in the previous days. The fence on the Spanish side is inclined 10º towards the Moroccan side to avoid being climbed. Nowadays in Melilla it is very difficult for them to get to jump the fence, due to the strong repression and surveillance of the Moroccan auxiliary forces, as well as the legalization of "hot returns", so that the most common form of Attempted irregular entry is in boats and boats.


The border of Tarajal II
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 8, 2014
Security perimeter before the fence. In this place, on February 6, 2014, the events of “the Tarajal Tragedy” took place, in which fifteen people of sub-Saharan origin were killed when they tried to swim across the border fence of the breakwater, due to containment actions. exercised by Spanish border agents.

The beach of tragedy
Sergio Torres. Tarajal border crossing and breakwater fence, Ceuta, July 2014
Such events led to the opening of a judicial case promoted by various civil society organizations, which was dismissed on October 30, 2019. In it, 16 civil guards were charged with the alleged crimes of homicide due to serious negligence resulting in death and denial of assistance, filing those of injuries and prevarication. Annually the "Marches of Dignity" are held in his memory (cear, 2020).

Malians on the Ceuta border
Sergio Torres. Benyunes, Morocco, August 22, 2014
“The future for me is to survive, because living is a risk. […] I currently have a plan and […] is that I am going to ride on the sea to go to Europe. […] He is not the first to leave his life in the sea. There are many for many years. […] There are dangers you have to face. There are obstacles, but it takes ten times more courage and ten times more anger to get there ”.
Spokesperson for Malian migrant group from Benyunes camp, personal communication, August 22, 2014
Between Bangladesh and Cameroon
Sergio Torres. ceti from Ceuta, July 18, 2014
In the Centers for Temporary Stay of Immigrants (ceti) of Ceuta and Melilla, where the first reception is given to migrants and refugees, people of different nationalities (with their respective customs) have to live together in a situation of emotional stress.
The role of the psychologist here is very important, because when they arrive, they are euphoric […], but when they realize that Ceuta is not the peninsula and that going through is not so easy, they come down.
Germinal Castillo, Spokesperson for the Ceuta Red Cross, personal communication of September 9, 2014


The long wait
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 28, 2014
Viewpoint located next to the slope of the road that led to the ceti of Ceuta. It was common to see them sitting at sunset watching the waters of the Strait, just as dinner time was approaching.
Lights and shadows at the Ceuta fair
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, August 6, 2014
During the city's patron saint festivities, sub-Saharan residents of the ceti later enter the center, although the National Police activated a special operation to prevent, with the dismantling of the attractions, trying to cross to the peninsula hidden in the trucks of the fairgrounds.


Syrian refugee camp
Sergio Torres. Plaza de los Reyes, Ceuta, July 11, 2014
Mohamad Ali Mahmoud (center) and Ahmad Hussein (right), Kurdish refugees.
[…] The first days we had a lot of problems with the police, because they harassed us. […] The war started so long ago, and they don't help us… it's a shame. Because unhcr It only intervenes to grant political asylum and has only recognized ten people. We only want to leave Ceuta to cross the Peninsula. We just want peace and freedom.
Mohamad Ali Mahmoud, personal communication, July 13, 2014
In the middle of the road
Sergio Torres. ceti from Melilla, August 14, 2014
Cameroonian resident of ceti of Melilla. With the arrival of Syrian refugee families, the center became so overcrowded that they had to place triple bunks outside the rooms.


The shops in the sun
Sergio Torres. ceti from Melilla, August 14, 2014
Red Cross tents with bunk beds. It was not allowed to take images of the barracks, where there were overcrowded situations.

The same sky for everyone
Sergio Torres. Tangier, Morocco August 1, 2014
Cathedral of Our Lady of Lourdes in Tangier. In the background, the Mohamed Mosque v. Migration management is also done from a humanitarian approach, in which the Catholic Church plays a relevant role, through the action of the different religious orders, for the protection and promotion of the human rights of migrants and refugees in transit. .
The holy feast of Ramadan: prayer and fasting at the border
Ceuta, multicultural city
Sergio Torres. Mosque on Avenida de Africa in Ceuta, July 4, 2014
In this city, the present coexists with its colonial past, as do the veils, the djellabas, the mosques and the Christian churches, or the Hindu temple and the Jewish synagogue. In the same way, different religious festivals are celebrated such as the procession of the Virgin of Africa, Ramadan, the feast of Ganesh (a joyous tradition in which this deity is strolled by a retinue of faithful through the streets among songs and flowers. to his sanctuary) or Hanukkah (with the ancient custom of lighting the lights at the door of the synagogue during winter).


Ramadan breakfast
Sergio Torres. El Morro, Ceuta, July 5, 2014
Breakfast to break the fast before dawn, offered by the Entre Dos Mares hotel. Chuparquía (Chebakia) is a traditional Moroccan Ramadan sweet, like harira soup, which act as a powerful restorative. The soup is usually accompanied by a boiled egg.
Purification of the soul
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 8, 2014
Sandals of the faithful at the entrance of the mosque.


The loyals
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 8, 2014
Mosque of the Benzú Ibn Ruchd Cultural Association.
Fishermen at sunset
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 5, 2014.
The muezzin called for prayer. That day the fast ended at 9:47 p.m., when the bustle of the streets began to be heard from all corners.


Larache reborn in Ramadan
Sergio Torres. Larache, Morocco, July 22, 2014
This coastal city on the Moroccan Atlantic is the reflection of a colonial city in decline, although during Ramadan, it regains all its splendor. Currently, it continues to be one of the exit points for the boats used by Moroccan migrants seeking to reach Spanish territory.
Prayer time in El Tarajal
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, Tarajal beach, July 8, 2014.
When we got to the beach that is located at the Tarajal border crossing, there were two men who were performing minor ablution before the prayer. They began to wash their hands and feet in the small fountains for bathers. Later, with a simple cardboard, they faced the sea to make their prayers. This is a quiet beach, but access to the border fence that reaches the sea is not possible. The posters of No passing that the Spanish authorities like so much dissuade you from crossing it on foot.
Field Journal Notes, July 8, 2014

The transfer of goods at border crossings

Tarajal Border Pass
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 2014
When Morocco became independent from Spain, customs was transferred to Ceuta, but the African country never accepted the existence of a commercial border, nor Spanish sovereignty over the autonomous cities of Ceuta and Melilla.

The reception of Moroccan taxi drivers
Sergio Torres. Tarajal border crossing, Morocco, July 2014
Taxi rank, just outside the Tarajal border. After the war with Morocco, Ceuta became the port of entry to the neighboring country. In addition, in 1918 a railway line that reached Tetouan was inaugurated, but it was cut after the independence process, although direct buses with the Ceuta-Castillejos-Tetuán and Tangier itinerary were maintained until 1975. When Franco died, this service it also ceased to exist. Now these journeys have to be made by taxi or in your own vehicle.

Panoramic view of the Príncipe Alfonso neighborhood
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, 2014
Image taken from the Mirador de Isabel ii. The neighborhood is considered not only a major source of poverty, but also of crime and jihadist terrorism. It is precisely there where the mafias dedicated to drug trafficking operate, in addition to the networks for the sale of false documentation and vehicles for migrant smuggling, whose activity is favored by its proximity to the Tarajal border crossing.

Roundabout of the neighborhood of the Prince
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, 2014
The neighborhood's bad reputation is motivated by the controversy and hype that politicians and the media give it […]. They have always been rebels. […] They have started with the eastern issue of jihadism. They caught ten bullshitters, who are not really terrorists or anything. They are people who… that there is no work and there is nothing. There is no social investment here to get them off the street. The other comes and goes to pray and they tell him, look, what they are doing to the Muslims. They're brainwashing him and getting him. […] The people in the center don't know anything. This is independent: from the gate of the field up and down. These people on one side are a world and those on the other, another world. The one in the center knows from the Prince what they hear in the TV, even if they are from Ceuta.
Reduan Mohamed, volunteer in Citizen Education, personal communication, July 15, 2014
The minaret
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, 2014.
The City Council had planned to invest 20 million euros from 2014 to 2020 to promote its urban regeneration. The proliferation of mosques and centers of worship was linked to the radicalization of young Muslims in the neighborhood, which has made border surveillance and police measures extreme, especially criminalizing this sector of the population.


The Biutz border crossing
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 2014
In the morning, the National Police agents prevented access and the taking of images in this restricted area, where pedestrian carrying of goods took place.
Tarajal industrial estate outside of business hours
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 2014
“Atypical trade” or smuggling activities were carried out in this polygon near the Prince, until its indefinite suspension in October 2019.

Porters forming a row
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, 2014
An average of 6,000 to 8,000 women porters crossed the border daily through the Biutz pass, collecting goods in the Polígono del Tarajal, to cross it again with heavy bundles (Fuentes-Lara, 2018, pp. 83-84).


Porter woman accompanied by a blind person
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, July 2014
Most of the porters are widowed women, disowned, with family responsibilities and very poor. The end of the porting has meant that their situation worsens, due to the lack of governmental alternatives. Many of the porters come from rural areas of the Wilaya of Tetouan, and they have to make a living as best they can in the informal sector.
Vendor of prickly pears (tunas) with the typical berber costume
Sergio Torres. Tetouan, Morocco, July 2014
In the vicinity of the Medina of the capital of the Wilaya Tetuaní, groups of women of the Amazigh ethnic group tend to concentrate (Alonso-Meneses, 1997) who live from street vendors.


On a route through the countryside
MI Perelló and Sergio Torres. Tetouan, Morocco, July 2014
In these places, it is common to see people on the side of the roads selling fruit and vegetables.

Preparing the race by pushing
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, 2014
The National Police carried out the tasks of surveillance of an atypical business that took place in deplorable working conditions and offered damaging images. Avalanches were frequent, causing deaths.
The gathering
Sergio Torres. Polígono Industrial del Tarajal, Ceuta, July 2014
The porters, known as “mules”, received a commission per bale of € 5 to € 10, depending on what they loaded on them, which required them to make several trips on the same day (Fuentes-Lara, 2018, pp. 83 -84). In the warehouses they packed blankets, sneakers, sportswear, etc. When the agents of the National Police allowed them to pass, they started running shouting towards the warehouses, to be the first to load the goods.


Porter looking for a position
Sergio Torres. Ceuta, 2014
In February 2017, the Tarajal border crossing was opened ii to carry out the porting, through which some 3,000 people came to transit daily until it was unilaterally closed in October 2019 by Morocco (Europa Press, 2019).
His whole life behind his back
Sergio Torres. Polígono del Tarajal, Ceuta, July 2014
To the right of the image, very old Berber porters women and another one on crutches.


Chinatown border crossing
Sergio Torres. Melilla, 2014
The suspension of the shipment reached the commercial customs of Melilla, although in February 2020 it was reactivated (Ceuta al día, 2020).
Beni Enzar border crossing
Sergio Torres. Melilla, 2014
The state of alarm decreed in the countries by the 2020 coronavirus pandemic, forced the exceptional closure of all borders between countries (García, 2020).

Bibliography
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Aziza, Mimoun (2011). “Une frontière européenne en terre marocaine. Analyse des relations transfrontalières entre Nador et Melilla”, en Natalia Ribas Mateos (ed.), El río Bravo mediterráneo: Las regiones fronterizas en la epoca de la globalización. Barcelona: Bellaterra, pp. 307-321.
Comisión Española de Ayuda al Refugiado (cear) (2020, 6 de febrero). “Caso Tarajal: 15 muertes y seis años de impunidad”, cear. Recuperado de https://bit.ly/3bA4vtS, consultado el 17 de septiembre de 2020.
Europa Press (2019, 9 de octubre). “España suspende indefinidamente el porteo peatonal de mercancías hacia Marruecos desde Ceuta”, Europa Press. Recuperado de https://bit.ly/3fRPEOJ, consultado el 17 de septiembre de 2020.
Fuentes-Lara, Cristina (2018). “Las mujeres porteadoras y el comercio irregular en la frontera de Ceuta”, en Xavier Ferrer-Gallardo y Lorenzo Gabrielli (ed.), Estados de excepción en la excepción del Estado. Ceuta y Melilla. Barcelona: Icaria Más Madera, pp. 73-94.
García, Luis (2020, 13 de marzo). “Marruecos cierra la frontera con España tras suspender las conexiones por mar y aire”, La Vanguardia. Recuperado de https://bit.ly/2T71Mla, consultado el 17 de septiembre de 2020.
Gómez-Barceló, José Luis (2009). “El siglo xix”, en vvaa, Historia de Ceuta. De los orígenes al año 2000, vol. 2, pp. 118-209.
El pueblo de Ceuta (2019, 9 de mayo). “Interior da luz verde a sustituir las concertinas por cilindros rotatorios”, El Pueblo de Ceuta. Recuperado de https://bit.ly/2zGti2a, consultado el 17 de septiembre de 2020.
Ceuta al día (2020, 13 de febrero). “Mientras la frontera de Ceuta sigue bloqueada, vuelve el porteo en Melilla”, Ceuta al Día. Recuperado de https://bit.ly/3cFGX8k, consultado el 17 de septiembre de 2020.
Portal de Cultura de Defensa (sin fecha). “Fuerte de Desnarigado (Ceuta)”, en Ministerio de defensa. Fortificaciones, Área Cultural. Recuperado de https://bit.ly/3byrVju, consultado el 17 de septiembre de 2020.
Procesa, Sociedad Pública de Desarrollo de Ceuta (2013). “Datos Básicos. Datos de situación y localización”, en Anuario Estadístico. Ciudad Autónoma de Ceuta 2013”. Recuperado de https://procesa.es/estadisticas/?sec=14, consultado el 17 de septiembre de 2020.
Servicio Jesuita a Migrantes – España (sjm) (2016). Sin protección en la frontera. Derechos Humanos en la Frontera Sur: entre Nador y Melilla. Recuperado de http://goo.gl/2MsDKN, consultado el 17 de septiembre de 2020.
Vilar, Juan (2003). “La frontera de Ceuta con Marruecos: Orígenes y conformación actual”, Cuadernos de Historia Contemporánea, núm. extraordinario, pp. 273-287. Recuperado de http://goo.gl/Yg1OFO, consultado el 17 de septiembre de 2020.
Vilar, Juan y Mª José Vilar (2002). Límites, fortificaciones y evolución urbana de Ceuta (siglos XV-XX) en su cartografía histórica y fuentes inéditas. Ciudad Autónoma de Ceuta: Consejería de Educación y Cultura, Archivos y Museos.
COVID-19 under the lens
Lto call covid-19 under the lens offers unpublished situations that were captured by photographs taken during the pandemic caused by the covid-19 (from March to August 2020). The editorial team of Encartes wanted to leave a visual memory of the havoc, movements and innovations that it brought in its wake and launched an open photography contest. The selected photos show us new situations generated by confinement, such as the faces of two elderly women who look at the street from their windows, or the Parisians coming out to the balconies to applaud the heroes of health, or the office worker who converts his bed on desk.

The fear of contagion instituted the use of antibacterial gel as a human exchange currency, instituted the mask not only as a sanitary garment, but even as gadget trendy, or turned into a humorous mask, as seen in the Joker's enigmatic smile. It was even installed as a new intimate garment that is washed and ironed daily like the others.

The pandemic brought in its wake new landscapes of desolation even in the squares and in the centers of the cities with the greatest human concentration. He imposed relationships with "healthy distance" to such a degree that it disrupted face-to-face interactions, virtualizing not only work but also intimate relationships and birthday parties, or turning the celebration of the mother into a procession of cars. It was also imposed in the closure of the temples, although the faithful continued to seek the blessing of the Virgin behind the bars. The healthy distance affected the way of living and experiencing everyday space and time, causing long lines to do the supermarket, or introducing new journalistic distances to interview the pressing official health sources. The covid-19 will not be forgotten, the photographs also show the popular creativity capable of converting the threatening virus into a harmless and colorful piñata that can be beaten to pieces at a children's party.

























Images we see, beliefs we do not know
Faith and the miracle at home
She is our mother and must be at home
Reina and Goyo Hernández. 35 years. Domestic workers, originally from the state of Hidalgo. Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Zapopan, March 7, 2018
Reina is married to Gregorio (Goyo) and has three young children (the oldest is eight years old, one is five and the other is ten months old). In the neighborhood department where they live, in the center of Zapopan, they have set up a small altar. This began when they were given a calendar with images of the Virgin of Guadalupe. They cut out the image of the Virgin and decided to take it to the Basilica of Zapopan to bless it. The process was simple, they just sprinkled it with the holy water that they found inside the temple. I asked him if doing so devoted to the image, and without hesitation he replied:
"Of course, before it was just a photograph, now it is the Virgin of Guadalupe."
Today its small altar is dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe, because Reina considers that "she is our Mother and should be at home." Other religious articles have been added to the image of the Virgin, including a Bible, which they do not usually read but which was a gift from her wedding.


I tell him what I feel, what I bring, what hurts me, what doesn't hurt ...
Mrs. Blanca, 64 years old, housewife, originally from Los Reyes, Michoacán. Photograph of Rafael T. Corro, Guadalajara, Jal. 2018.
For me to make my personal prayer with him daily, to make my personal prayer with him daily is about having a dialogue with him. I tell him what I feel, what I bring, what hurts me, what doesn't hurt me, my rush and that is daily. Getting up, the first thing I do is thank him because he already let me dawn, he already let me see the light of a new day that I say "Lord, you have already given me the license to dawn and take one more step towards you", because I wake up to live it today but it is one more step that I take towards the final game, if you understand me. Then I wake up comfortable, happy, happy and I say "Lord, this day I promise you everything I will do with love, for you and for you" and if I am going to live today as if it were the last of my life, enjoy it , enjoy it, be happy, happy, happy, because tomorrow I don't know if it will dawn or after a while I will leave, if you understand me? And it is what I, sometimes I wear, I arrive and I stay there with him for a while, I pray, talk and it is daily, of my daily devotion.
If you are already baptized, God already recognizes you as his son
Donato Hernández, 35 years old, originally from Hidalgo, cashier in Oxxo. Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Zapopan, March 7, 2018.
What does the baptism of the Christ Child consist of?
“In taking him to the church to listen to the word of God during Holy Mass and already at the end of the Mass they already bless him, it is already like a symbol of baptism. He is like a child, if he is not baptized he is not yet a creature, but if he is already baptized, God already recognizes him as his son. He is already part of the family of God. "


I respect and love them and I feel like they protect me
Blanca, a 64-year-old housewife, originally from Los Reyes, Michoacán. Photograph by Rafael T. Corro, Guadalajara, April 25, 2018.
The saint of my devotion is the Sacred Heart of Jesus. I've always had faith in him. With the Sacred Heart of Jesus, I feel like I am very protected by him. What is Jesus, is himself. They are my ideas, the Sacred Heart of Jesus and the Virgin Mary, for me, because I respect and love them and I feel that they protect me.
Many miracles have been done to me
María Trinidad García Escobar. Housewife. 60 years old, originally from Mexico City. Photograph of Rafael T. Corro, Guadalajara, Jal. April 26, 2018.
For the Glory of the Lord, I am a Minister of the Eucharist, so I need to be in constant prayer. I like having the altar because for me it is like a sign that Christ is present there, and well, I don't know, maybe my faith and what I decide to do, because seeing the image deepens me a little.
In my house, my entire family is Catholic, and from my childhood my parents taught me this faith and we have continued. We are a very united family and when we can we all join in prayer. When not, then I am obliged to pray in the morning and at night.
I have Christ and the Virgin. They have done many miracles for me. I know that for many people it is something well, perhaps, that does not make sense, but for me it does, they have worked many miracles for me. I have received many thanks; Just yesterday I had the happiness of verifying that the Holy Mary was with me, because a scorpion bit me and nothing happened to me, nothing. And I was praying the rosary, so I have the full conviction that Mary is the intercessor before Jesus so that nothing happens to us.


If the first miracle was done by God for his mother, then what can he deny her?
Hortensia Ramírez Sandoval. Housewife, 70 years old. Originally from Autlán, Jalisco. Photograph of Anel Salas, Guadalajara, Jal. May 28, 2018.
I pray to the Virgin because I know that she is the Mother of God and I know that mothers ask their children, and if the first miracle was done by God for their mother, then what can he deny her… I think nothing. However, when I go to sleep, I try to pray an Our Father, because I think that there is a lot of who we are and a lot of what we are not, because that prayer is very strong and it is very difficult to fulfill.
For me the main image is that of Christ, I have that on my bedroom door
Hortencia Ramírez Sandoval. Housewife Age: 70 years. Originally from Autlán, Jalisco. Photograph of [anonymous], Guadalajara, Jalisco May 28, 2018.
I have the Child God and I worship him every day he is born; to say something, we change his clothes, which is traditional, but my husband has a lot of faith in San Judas Tadeo, my father had a lot of faith in San Martín Caballero, hence why I have it, and the Lenten candle, they say that it is very good to have it, I have many, not as much as I would like ... well I wanted to put together the four candles for when they are needed because I do want them to put candles for me; I mean, I want them to put candles at my wake.
I take the candles every Glory Saturday to bless, because they are all blessed, and I keep them inside that display case, that is, I keep them, and since there are many I don't have to be constantly lighting them because they don't run out. That is the one that I turn on the most, because there it is, but I tell you, I keep them, I buy them, they bless them.



My God, take care of me from the bad things on the street, protect me
Lucia, tamale merchant, 67 years old. Originally from the Atemajac neighborhood. Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Colonia Tepeyac, Zapopan, August 19, 2019.
I get up: "Thank God sir for letting me live", I cross myself, when I go out the door I cross myself, I say: "My God, take care of me from the bad things that are in the street, protect me", in the morning; At night I pray to go to sleep and I pray to my children, I bless them, I bless my house and I go to sleep, I thank God: “Thank you, great Lord, for letting me get dark, and in charity I ask You let me wake up in your grace and service and without offending you, amen ”. That is my prayer.
I do not allow any toys to be taken from me, because they are hers
Lucia, tamale merchant, 67 years old. Originally from the Atemajac neighborhood. Photograph Renée de la Torre, Colonia Tepeyac, Zapopan, August 19, 2019.
In that little box, behind the bear, there is a small urn of a dead man, of a little boy who died to my daughter. He is eight years old now, but I am going to take him to bury because I want to take him to the temple. That is why I have that little altar, and her toys for the child, that is why I do not allow any toys to be taken from me because they are hers (her granddaughter).
Eight years old there; yes, they are toys for the baby. And I want to take him to holy land, I'm just waiting for my daughter's order, I have holy water there.


For me religion is a matter of faith
Dolores, 57 years old, Zapopan. Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Zapopan, March 7, 2018.
I know that it is an image x, I know that it is made by men, I know that it is nothing divine to say something, but I think that your faith makes you respect, because for me religion, nobody saw anything, we know nothing, we know what has been read, but who made the books? The man, but man is to kill himself, so for me religion is a matter of faith, I know that there is a God, because, well, there must be something supernatural or superior so that we can believe, so that we can live, and I feel that there is a God because there are many things that have no explanation.
It appeared next to the well, and then I knew it was the Virgin of the Well
Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Oaxaca, April 21, 2018.
This image appeared one morning in a miraculous way. The funny thing is that it appeared next to the well, with its damp stain. From that day on I began to receive blessings. I gained him faith. Now the neighbors even come to pray to him. Later I learned that it was the Virgen del Pozo, a Cuban image. Since then I have set up his altar for him and every time I have problems I pray to him and he helps me.


Nobody resists something so beautiful, it is irresistible, right?
Elena Mendez de la Peña, stylist and ghostwriter. Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Guadalajara, April 2, 2019.
My mother had a Child Jesus, and when she died, she did not touch me. So I commissioned an ex-boyfriend to buy me one in Madrid. I took him to bless. Then we would take him to San Juan de Dios to buy him some clothes. Then people knelt down and crossed themselves in passing. There we really understood how strong we have. In other words, my son was very young, he said: “Oh mom! Have you seen? People recognize the Child Jesus ”.
Every year on February 2, I invite friends to dress the boy. In fact, she has her godmother in a dress and we do all the ritual as it was customary before. Well, we make something to eat, I put a blanket on it to give the child to the comadre. We clean the child with a little oil like a baby's, and then we dress him. He has shoes, he has underwear, he has long shorts. All those super anti-religion, anti-priest people, everything, but nobody resists something so nice; It's irresistible, right?
Next to the child I put holy water that I always have for when someone comes who has a problem and wants to pray with me, then people don't pray, but they ask you, they send me little messages. And they ask you: “oh, I have a problem, they are going to operate on my mother, my child is sick or I cannot get pregnant; oh, pray, don't be gacha ”, then they ask me to pray for them. For that I have a little notebook where I put people with problems in a little list. Some don't come, that is, there are people who don't necessarily know where I live or anything, but I always tell them: "I'm going to put you on the list."
Miraculous images. Neighborhood chapels
She hears me, and when I ask her for something she always fulfills me
Rosendo Plasencia, captain of the Grupo de Danza Ritual Azteca Hermanos Plascencia, 70 years old. Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Guadalajara, May 2015.
Twenty years ago, a Franciscan came to her house and gave it to her, complete with pilgrimage outfit. And it turned out that the Virgin has been very miraculous. The altar has its candles lit, and its bouquets of flowers. It is the dancers who are in charge of bringing her flowers and light to keep the Virgin happy. Rosendo says that he has a very special relationship with the Virgin: “she hears me, and when I ask her for something she always fulfills me. Sometimes when we are rehearsing the choreographies of the dance in the street, the black clouds that threaten rain are seen, I ask the Virgin to stop the rain so that I can continue with the rehearsal, and it is impressive how the clouds are moving away from the sky".


It was where the oratory burned down, but nothing happened to San Miguel
Altar of the Pineda family, shell dancers. Miguel Angel Pineda, captain of the shell dance Señor San Miguel. Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Mexico City, November 1, 2005.
When my grandfather left the pulquería, he found the headless saint and picked him up and took him home. The next day some children, who were in the street playing soccer, picked up the head. My father liked to go chatting, and on Sunday he went to the store and found his head. They sold it to him for 20 or 50 cents in those days. Then he ordered to restore the saint and there begins the dance to Señor San Miguel. In the thirties they gave my grandfather the skeleton of General Medina (he refers to the skull), because they did not follow the tradition of burying him. That skeleton is preserved by my father and makes it the basis of Señor San Miguel. The first oratory was on Calle de Pintores, in the Morelos neighborhood, that's where the oratory was burned, but nothing happened to San Miguel. Later we moved to the street of Typography, and already in the 60s my parents came to the current house, where the oratory continues. He is the main Saint of our altar, to which we offer our dances and prayers, for this reason the banner of the dance group is dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel. He is very miraculous, and he has saved us from many problems. This is the first year that we dressed him as an Aztec warrior, as he always dressed as a Roman soldier, but if he is our patron saint, he must already dress like us.
There are people who say: ah, Santa Muerte is bad; the bad ones are the people
Miguel Ángel Lemus, 30 years old. Guardian of the Santa Muerte Temple, Las Juntas neighborhood. Photograph by Anel Salas. Guadalajara, Tuesday, July 3, 2018.
Oh yes, in my mother's house he had a holy death and he promised to make him his temple, he did it, he knows what he would do, but more for him and from there came the devotion of the people, people from others came places, there were already more people there in that temple and they already came for the same thing, and it is the first temple they made in Guadalajara.
I consider myself one hundred percent Catholic because I believe in God, I believe in the Virgin, I believe in the angel of death, for me he is the angel of death because he was the creator, the angels and the angel of death, That is why if there were no death, Adam and Eve would not be, that is my criterion then, that is, we would not be here.
Yes, well, here come people who pray to him sometimes, they cross themselves and leave so they don't see that there is a bad vibe or anything, do you understand me? Because there are people who say: ah, Santa Muerte is bad, the bad ones are people, that is true.

The blessing of business

These images are blessed and thus they bless my little shop
Grocery store in Chapala, photo by Renée de la Torre, June 15, 2017.
All the images that I have on my altar have been given to me by the neighbors, who are my clients. They go on pilgrimages to the Shrines, and although I can't go because I have to be taking care of the business, they do it for me. They bring them to me as gifts and I place them there, because these images are blessed and thus bless my little shop.
I ask him about the business, because there is a good sale and that he take care of the place
Ana, “la Patrona”, merchant from the Abastos market, 61 years old, originally from Sahuayo, Michoacán. Photography: Anel Salas, Guadalajara, June 26, 2018.
Ana, who is called "the Patron" and attends a winery in the Abastos market, set up her altar to continue her family tradition: "I have the Virgin because she is the same one they have in my house. And to San Judas because he is the miraculous saint for businessmen ”.
Every day she is in charge of cleaning the altar and every two days she changes the flowers in the vase. Only at Christmas and on the day of the Virgin do the lights turn on. The workers leave him fruits as offerings. And in the morning they all cross each other when they come to work and offer him the day.
“Well, at the beginning of the day we all crossed ourselves. I ask him about the business, because there is a good sale and that he take care of the premises. I have a lot of faith in him, you can see that he is the saint who helps with money and business matters. "


The Child Doctor is very miraculous, I do believe, I do have a lot of faith; I have asked him and he has granted me
Manuel and Angelica Flores Leos, Santa Tere neighborhood, sale of handicrafts. Photography: Anel Salas, Guadalajara, November 27, 2018.
We dressed him as a dancer for October 12, the day of the carrying of the Virgin of Zapopan, and we dressed him as a dancer again for December 12, we dressed him as an indito.
I gave the Doctor Child to my mother, because she was always very devout; she told me that she had done a very great miracle for her. I sent it to a man who sold fruit outside a hospital that is for women, through the imss clinic, and one day we passed by and he was working with a Christ, so he showed us photos of what he was making and showed us the Child Doctor, and you notice it is going to be strange to see a Child Doctor like this, because of his expression; Here people come and say: "How great, that Child just needs to talk, I have never seen such a beautiful child", and there are no people who do not suck him, people come, they leave him money, a child left him one day A car.
One day a lady came from Spain looking for a doctor, and she came by and came back and said: “I felt that someone spoke to me; what a beautiful child, can I tell you something? " And I said: "sure…." He told me: "I have my daughter very seriously ill, but hopefully God and the Child will do the miracle for me." Some time passed, about a month and a half, and the lady came back and said: “I have come to thank you, my daughter was about to have her baby and she had already told us that the baby was not going to be saved and my daughter was going to live the 20% and was no longer going to have children. I come to thank you because my grandson and my daughter are well, I come from Spain just to thank you ”.
I do believe, I do have a lot of faith, I have asked him and he has granted me, I am not saying that he is everything, he is just a medium.
I could no longer go to mass ...
Don Pedro, mechanical workshop, Photograph by Anel Salas, Guadalajara, February 8, 2019.
Don Pedro is a Catholic, but due to his knee problems he can no longer go to Mass, but he says that he does use to pray there, praying his rosary. Devotee of San Judas Tadeo and author of the altar, he had the ideas to accommodate the images that the patron had forgotten at the back of the workshop. Now it is usually a place where neighboring devotees of Saint Jude Thaddeus usually go to cross themselves and entrust themselves.


The temple you bring
José Luis, loader of the Abastos market, 52 years old. Photograph by Anel Salas, Guadalajara, June 25, 2018.
With my altar I continue the tradition of my hometown. There it was customary to take the saint and watch him all night, as if he were a dead man. I dedicate it to San Judas Tadeo because he is the holiest of saints.
I don't need to go to Mass with the priests. It is that you bring the temple. Jesus said: I am going to build the temple in three days, and they ignored it, right? Because it took 40 years to build the temple but he was not referring to the temple under construction, the temple is made by all the people, on the third day How much crowd did it have?
Sales are doing very well, we can't complain
Lupita, 27 years old, merchant. Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Oaxaca, April 21, 2018.
The painting of the Virgen de la Soledad and the blessing of the business with the image of San Martín Caballero, patron of merchants, were put by the owner of the groceries to favor daily sales. Look at what it says: “God bless my business, my work and my clients. Then I put the lucky kitten on him and I put flowers on him to make him happy. We are doing very well in sales, we cannot complain ”.


This is a rough neighborhood
Altar in a canteen, San Juan de Dios neighborhood.Photography Renée de la Torre, Guadalajara, June 20, 2019.
Each figure of San Judas Tadeo that we have placed on the counter we have put it for each one of our neighborhood companions who have killed. This is a rough neighborhood. Although the people here know and respect us.
The Virgin of Guadalupe is never short of flowers. San Juditas is not offered flowers
Flower market, Mezquitán, photograph by Anel Salas, Guadalajara, Jalisco, February 7, 2019.
"The Virgin of Guadalupe never lacks flowers, if they are withered the day comes and we change them, but she always has flowers."
And do they also put flowers on Saint Jude?
“No, San Juditas is not offered flowers. But to the Virgin yes; his day, December 12, we do adorn him. "


Protection on the street or on the corner

As he could not go out, it was better to bring the Virgin here and set up an altar
Chapala, Jalisco 2017. Photography: Renée de la Torre.
My husband got sick and was very delicate. He wanted to go to the Basilica to ask the Virgin for his health. So, I thought that since I couldn't go out, it was better to bring the Virgin here and set up an altar for her. And since then she's there and we don't have to travel to be with her.
To protect us daily
Photograph of Renée de la Torre, Chapala March 26, 2018.
This street became very unsafe. Out here marijuana used to gather. That is why I placed the image of the Virgin, to protect us every day.


This place is respected. People want it. It belongs to everyone
Virgin of Guadalupe in the Atemajac neighborhood, interview with Don Antonio, 70 years old, retired Photograph by Renée de la Torre, Sunday, January 13, 2019.
For twenty years the colony has become very dangerous, but this place is respected. People want it. It belongs to everyone. The image was blessed by the parish priest and the neighbors usually gather to celebrate it on the day of the dead at night and on December 12, the day of the Virgin. The neighbors organize to pray to him and even music bands bring him. The priest also assists in coordinating the prayers. I remember there used to be a boy who sold peanuts on the corner. Two houses away a drug dealer lived. One day they came looking for him. They did not find it. And he was able to flee. He has not returned and no one knows where he is. The owner of the land tried to remove the altar, but the neighbors organized and defended the place. No one can remove it, it belongs to everyone.
It is a community space
Ofelia, a neighbor of Tlaquepaque, Jalisco. Photograph by Anel Salas, September 17, 2018.
He was blessed by the priest, and look, it is a community space and they made meetings so that one day some would sweep, another day others would water and keep him clean. Now they no longer want to come here to put the ashes; But even so, many people come in the afternoons, they begin to pray their rosary, they pray to them there alone, gentlemen get out of the truck, they begin to pray there, they say their novenas, there is a man who when he sees a lot of garbage, he removes it with his stand up and then he pulls me over here and says: "sir, I left the garbage there," because now there was a lot of garbage with the Virgin.


The bark fell off and the figure of the Virgin appeared on the trunk
Chapel of the Virgin of Guadalupe, in the Constitution, Guadalajara. Photograph by Anel Salas Sunday, March 3, 2019.
It is known as the Chapel of the Virgin of Guadalupe. It was assembled eight years ago, as a result of a man hitting a truck in the tree; when he backed out, he took out his truck and the bark fell off and the figure of the Virgin appeared on the trunk, and he came out as if nothing, that is, nothing happened to him. In gratitude, the injured man came and made his altar, because nothing happened to him, although they say that he knocked down several posts from there ...
Every day a lot of people go to work and stop. Sometimes they go in the cars and they stay standing there, as if they say a prayer and they already leave, and they continue on their way. In general, people respect the place of the Virgin, and it gives a little security to the block, because people are already very crazy here.
The priest refuses and has not come to bless her. Once we were at mass, he said that he used money for what the church does and scolded us: "instead of taking it there to the virgin of the tree, bring it to me here."
In you we put all our hope. You are our life and consolation
Mrs. Ortiz, 53 years old, housewife and mother of the deceased. Photograph Renée de la Torre, San Miguel neighborhood, Chapala, March 26, 2018.
We placed the Virgin and Saint Juan Diego to pray for the soul of our son, who died very young from cancer. We wanted comfort, it was very hard. We put it so that Our Lady can protect us every day. To protect the images, we build their nichitos for them. We plant nopales and roses to create the landscape of their appearance. Thus the neighbors remember daily the miracle of Our Mother, who always accompanies us and protects us as we walk.



Here they beat him to death
Cenotaph of the band Los Tepehuas in Chapala. Mary (neighbor), 35 years old, domestic worker. Photograph Renée de la Torre, Chapala, March 16, 2018.
In the neighborhood of San Miguel in the town of Chapala, Jalisco, an altar was built as a cenotaph on the site where Jesús Melchor was brutally murdered, who lost his life in a fight between two territorial gangs, that of Derrumbes against that of Tepehua. A neighbor tells:
“Here they beat him to death, they disfigured his face for wanting to enter the neighborhood of the others. They left him unrecognizable and threw him into the corner that marks the boundary between the two bands ”. This occurred in 2009. And it was the first violent death as a result of fights between neighborhood gangs. At first, this place became the meeting point for the Tepehua gang, where they attended to sell and consume marijuana. The neighbors spoke with the mothers of the young people and negotiated to place an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe and another of San Judas Tadeo on an altar protected by a fence. In 2013, three other young drug victims died, whose names are also inscribed in the cenotaph. In 2018 they put the names of another five young people.
“Jesús Melchor's mother is in charge of keeping clean and watering the flowers that accompany the altar. The mothers of the neighborhood gather to pray and celebrate each anniversary of their deceased children at this altar. "
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